A shadowy dining room with very high ceilings features dramatic dark colors and lighting. Gold caged metal light fixtures give an industrial touch as they hang from the high white ceiling over a gunmetal grey round table with a thick, ridged matching round base. Around the table are low lounge chairs in soft grey velvet on dark wood legs. At the back is a wall of tall grey flat-front kitchen cabinets against a black wall. Below those is another bank of cabinets in white. A grey island stands in front of the countertops. Flanking the tall entrance to the kitchen behind the dining area are a pair of wooden wall treatments, each featuring about a dozen very high, thin, matching vertical planks of darkly stained wood affixed to the wall, like a small area of dramatic paneling.

Q&A Style, Decor & Design

Kitchen and Dining Room Furniture

June 20, 2023June 21, 2023 by Laura Grey No Comments

Q: I need new dining furniture, and I’m getting overwhelmed by all the seating options. I thought I knew what I wanted, but then I noticed some great benches and banquettes, and now my fiancé wants to have a concrete-topped eat-in kitchen. What should we know before we choose our kitchen and dining room furniture?

A: It’s true—there are many more options today than every before. And you don’t have to stick to just one type—you can mix and match them as you please. But what looks good in the showroom might not be great for your needs or your spaces. So let’s look at a few popular kitchen and dining room furniture options, their benefits, and their drawbacks.

First, Consider the Table

Wooden tables

A sleek black Wishbone chair sits next to a white oval Tulip table in a bare white space. A small green plant sits on the table, but the space is otherwise bare. — Contrasting colors, materials, and styles can work together, especially if they’re from the same period, like these MCM classics. The curves of this black Hans Wegner-designed Wishbone chair complement Saarinen’s white Tulip table | Laura Davidson for Unsplash

The seating you choose will depend on your table or counter. The standard setup is a round, oval, square, or rectangular table made of stained or painted wood. The round option is likely to be on a pedestal; the others are most often on four legs. Rectangular and square tables may have legs at the corners, or set in a few inches from the edges.

The most popular kitchen and dining room furniture styles nowadays tend to be modern farmhouse, midcentury modern (MCM), industrial, or boxy contemporary. These all tend toward rectangular tables. Sometimes homes that embrace MCM style like round tables, especially in smaller spaces. Round tables may be on legs, but wooden ones often have pedestals. Pedestal tables let you sit all around the edge and not worry about working around legs. They also let you seat an odd number of people around the table.

Oval or rounded-rectangle tables

A traditional provincial style dining room such as one might have seen in New England in the 1940s. The floor is dark brown and features a large oval braided rug in shades of grey and white with a wide navy border. On that sits a rectanguarl dark wood dining table set with Blue Willow plates and blue placemats. Dark wood side chairs surround the table. The walls are painted a medium turquoise, and navy and white toile curtains hang on either side of a large picture window hung with ruffled white sheers. It the two back corners of the room are two built-in corner display cases with white shelves above and white cabinet doors below. On the shelves are blue and white plates and dishes. The interior of the shelving is painted turquoise. The fireplace surround and mantel and all trim and doors are painted white, as are the baseboards. A large formal blue and white platter hangs over the fireplace flanked by candlesticks and two large blue and white jars. A brass fender sits around the base of the fireplace. — This traditional Colonial revival dining room of the 1940s features a table with six legs and a rounded rectangular top, and chairs with narrow seats—choices few would make today | Ladies’ Home Journal, 1948 | Wikimedia Commons

Oval, rounded rectangular, and rectangular tables usually have four legs. Sometimes they’re on one or two pedestals instead. Oval tables are likely to place legs three to six inches inside the curved corners. This shape is less popular today than when Colonial revival decor was in fashion in the 1940s and 1950s. Ovals were also popular during the 1980s, when darkly stained Queen Anne tables were often paired with Chippendale chairs. Contemporary oval tables tend to be sleekly midcentury modern or minimalist in style.

Oval tables take up as much floor space as rectangles, but provide less surface area. However, they can be convenient for people in wheelchairs. It’s convenient to roll right up to the small end of an oval table without getting crowded by legs or pedestals.

Finnish architect and designer Eero Saarinen’s Tulip table is an iconic midcentury modern (MCM) classic from 1956. This table comes in oval and round versions. It’s usually white or black, sometimes topped with marble. The Tulip table has a thin top and a curvy pedestal—a supple shape that still feels modern. It’s often paired with curvy bucket chairs with their own pedestal bases. However, you can also contrast it with other midcentury chairs for variety.

Gate-leg or drop-leaf tables

Gate-leg or drop-leaf tables have additional legs in the center. These legs can swing out or in. By moving the gate, you can fold one or both ends of the table down. This lets the table take up less room, making it more versatile. If you have a vintage gate-leg table, make sure the table feels stable when the table is expanded to its full length. (Older gate-legs can feel a little wobbly.) Also, know that those extra legs in the center limit how many you can seat along the sides.

Glass tables

Glass-topped tables that rest on metal frames are another option. They take up less visual space in a room, making a room feel lighter and airier. However, glass-topped tables scratch as easily as wooden ones. They also get smudgy. To keep them looking good, you’ll probably want to use placemats instead of dining directly on the glass. Tablecloths are an option, but they’re less popular than placemats nowadays because they require frequent washing and ironing to look good. Give glass tables a quick wipe-down after meals to erase smudges.

Glass, like stone, is heavy and breakable. Glass and stone are usually reserved for smaller square or round tables, and placed on metal frames. Wicker sunroom tables often have glass tops as well, as do round outdoor patio tables. You’ll also find them indoors on low round coffee tables, or small side tables. One drawback to glass is that transparent tables may let diners view others’ legs, laps, and feet through the table during the meal. As a result, they create a more casual feeling (and provide less privacy) than a standard wooden table.

Marble, manufactured solid-surface, and wooden tables or islands

A white minimalist kitchen warmed by wood and orange touches. The back wall with a small over-sink window is covered in white porcelain hex tiles. The white marble waterfall-edged island has pale grey veining. Three low MCM-style wood barstools sit below the counter in front of figured wood cabinet doors. A large orange painting hangs at left behind a tall tropical plant. An enameled Dutch oven on the counter is in the same shade of grey-green as the plant. Sparkling glassware is in glass-front white cabinets on the back wall. Some glasses inside have copper highlights. The bottoms of the cabinets are painted orange. Large white globe pendant lights hang over the island. — Roam in Color for Unsplash

A busy kitchen with a wall of flat wide walnut-grained cabinets hanging over a tall backsplash of vertical mottled beige tiles in various rectangular shapes. In front of that is a white marble counter on top of a pony wall of highly detailed and decorative geometric tiles of many coordinating patterns. They're covered in black, brown, and blue designs on a white background. In front of the tiles is a row of midcentury style bar stools with low grey upholstered seats over pale wooden legs. Above the counter are several pear-shaped hanging pendant lamps made of thin bent slats of pale wood. — Roam in Color for Unsplash

Perhaps you’d like to dine at a built-in kitchen island. Granite and manufactured solid-surface countertops are tough and usually impervious to stains. However, marble, soapstone, and wood scratch and stain easily. If you use marble, you might consider a honed rather than polished finish. Honed stone is matte instead of shiny, and doesn’t show wear as much. No matter the finish, you’ll want to seal your stone at least twice a year. It’s easy—just buy a bottle of sealer at the hardware store for under $30. It takes little time, and really pays off. But it’s important to reseal regularly, just as you need to reseal backsplash and bathroom tile grout (which stains and crumbles over time otherwise).

If you have a countertop made of soft stone or wood, avoid cutting food directly on your counter. This causes scratches and makes staining more likely. Always use a cutting board to keep from damaging surfaces.

Poured concrete countertops

Concrete is an intriguing material that makes a decidedly industrial statement. While usually left in its natural grey state, it can be dyed. Concrete countertops can crack, especially if poured in place instead of precast. However, those cracks can be filled. Be aware that concrete is susceptible to stains and scratches. It’s also porous and can soak up food juices as well as dangerous bacteria. That’s why it’s important for looks and food safety to seal concrete. For safety and durability, reseal at least once a year. Again, this isn’t expensive or time-consuming. Reseal once or twice a year to keep counters safe for food prep and looking good.

That said, even sealed concrete stains easily. The culprits aren’t just troublesome liquids like red wine or olive oil. Even water stains can show up on sealed concrete. If you like a surface with patina, that’s no problem. But if you like things looking even and fresh, concrete is probably not the surface for you.

Metal-topped tables and islands

A close-up of a restaurant kitchen's cooking area, which is surrounded by stainless steel and uses stainless pans and utensils. — *Stainless steel is popular for professional kitchens because it’s sturdy and easy to clean, but it scratches easily, and the industrial look lacks warmth | Skylar Kang for Pexels*

Zinc or stainless steel islands and tabletops give an edgy industrial look. Zinc develops a patina over time, which some people love. However, it looks spotty and uneven for about the first year until discolorations build up and blend together.

Smooth stainless steel counters are popular in restaurant kitchens because they’re nonporous and hold up to strong cleaners. These are necessary hygiene features for professional chefs. But they tend to look cold and clinical, like a chemistry lab or an airplane lavatory.

Machine-hammered stainless steel adds a textural pattern. This feels more artisanal (and hides scratches better). Scratches are a big consideration for stainless steel—even tiny scratches are very noticeable. (Think of how quickly new stainless steel sinks go from shiny to hazy.) Some people like that scratched patina. Others prefer their stainless counters prepared with omnidirectional brushing beforehand, to soften the shine. This won’t hide scratches entirely, but it helps.

Now, the Seating

A rectangular table with a square pedestal sits on a pale patterned rug in a dark grey room with a dark wooden floor and two tall windows with sheer white curtains. Around the table are six low, teal velvet dining chairs with rounded backs. They sit on gold metal tubular frames held up by matching gold tubular legs. — The Angelo dining chair in Solstice plush velvet (also in counter and barstool heights) is an easy-care contemporary option—pull these lounge-like chairs into the living area for chic party seating | Rove Concepts

Buying chairs, stools, or benches online is tempting. However, it’s helpful to try them in person before you buy. Some are rickety, don’t assemble easily, or are hard or stiff. Others have rough finishes or bumpy metal welds.

Upholstered or cushioned chairs are more comfortable for long periods. However, food and drink stain upholstery and rugs, especially if they’re light or made of natural fibers. Water-repellent fabrics and rugs in patterns or darker colors are your friends. If you dislike synthetics, consider wool, which is naturally water-resistant.

I’m a big fan of performance velvet. This water- and stain-resistant fabric is soft, like low-pile velvet. It’s comfortable, elegant, and holds up to years of wear. It makes liquids bead up, and cleans easily with a damp cloth. Faux suede is similarly durable and attractive. I love these fabrics in dramatic yet practical dark tones like navy or dark green for kitchen and dining room furniture. They also work beautifully for sofas and easy chairs.

Heathered or tweed fabrics and patterned upholstery can hide stains well. Synthetics with a tight weave tend to repel liquids best. Untreated cottons and linen, while beautiful, are absorbent and stain easily. Natural suede shows water spots and gets shiny with wear, but leather and vegan leather are sturdy and washable. These work well for kitchen and dining room furniture.

All chairs matching

A single Arne Jacobsen Series 7 chair sits on a white floor with a black wall behind it. The curved single piece of plywood is bent in a 90-degree angle to create both the seat and the chair back. The top of the seat back is straight and it curves at the top corners and narrows toward the seat, creating a kind of curved triangle whose base point melds into the seat. The seat is curved at the back and sides (which dip upward slightly) and curves down and forward at the front where leg will drape over the edge. The top of the chair rests on thin, bent chromed steel legs that end in black rubber feet. — Arne Jacobsen’s iconic Series 7 chairs were created in bright colors as well as in the original pale bent plywood. Red chairs make a bold, exciting statement when gathered around a glossy black, white, or glass table | Holger.Ellgaard for Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Using all the same type and finish of chair around a matching table gives an elegant, cohesive look to a space. (For example, see Eero Saarinen’s Tulip chairs placed around a Tulip table.) Using all matching chairs around a contrasting table can also work well if the chairs and table share a general style, or have complementary styles. For example, if the chairs and the table are all Danish modern, all minimalist, or all Gothic revival in design, they often work well even if they don’t match.

Sometimes echoing shapes or finishes works well, such as when a Danish modern teak table is round and the paler Danish modern chairs around it have curvy backs. Generally, using matching chairs around a mismatched table works best if they all have something in common. But sometimes a wild combo (like clear, minimalist lucite chairs paired with a rectangular red lacquered wooden table) can look exciting, too.

Usually, when all the chairs match, that means they’re all side chairs. In a long, narrow room, using only side chairs without arms around a narrower table works especially well. The extra bulk and width of armchairs is avoided, and the table isn’t so wide that it pushes the chairs up against the walls.

Matching side and armchairs

For many years the most popular option for dining around a rectangular or oval table was to have four or six matching side chairs. Then you’d add two more armchairs in the same style for the ends of the table. For round tables, four to six matching side chairs is usually the rule. Placing arm chairs next to each other around a curved table is uncommon, since it makes getting into and out of a chair more awkward.

In modern kitchens and dining rooms, it’s common to use only armless chairs. These feel less formal and look more airy and open, fitting the modern style. However, having armrests may be a little more physically relaxing if you like to stay and chat at the table after dining.

Chairs plus a bench

A white room with a tall pair of white French doors at the back flanked by creamy linen curtains sets the stage for a rustic unfinished wide-wood-plank dining table. Atop the table is a large wrinkled length of unbleached linen spread out as a wide and lumpy runner. Arrayed above the runner are four aged brass candlesticks with white tapers, an assortment of white and clear bowls, and a number of branches with leaves, possibly from olive trees. Six large matte grey plates are placed around the table, each covered with a white napkin and silverware tied up with string and a sprig of herbs. Midcentury modern chairs flank the table, and a simple flat white pendant hangs over it. The floor is bare, pale wood. — This rustic table works with the smooth midcentury lines and dark stain on the chairs thanks to pale textural stripes on the cushions. They echo the table’s colors and textures. Curtains and a runner add more texture, keeping this monochromatic room interesting | Toa Heftiba for Unsplash

In recent years, mixing chairs with a bench has grown in popularity. Most common is a combination of four to six chairs plus a comfortable bench that seats two to three. This is most common in contemporary or modern farmhouse homes.

Benches can also be repurposed as coffee tables or seating in entryways or mudrooms. A bit of cushioning makes a bench much more comfortable if you’re sitting for a while, so I recommend upholstering benches used for dining.

Benches at a dining table leave a room looking more open because fewer chair backs block the view. However, for long dinners, backless and cushion-free seating can be less comfortable. Standard dining chairs with seat cushions are best for sitting for longer periods, especially for older people.

Mismatched Seating

This option is more common for a farmhouse kitchen with a rustic wooden farmhouse table. The table may be painted a soft grey, black, white, or cream color. However, a mid-tone natural or stained wood with a prominent grain is most common. The chairs you choose to place around that table will vary more in style and type. Here are a few popular options for mismatched seating.

Banquettes

The dining area of the home of Danish modern design star Finn Juhl features three wooden and upholstered arm chairs of his design around a wooden table placed next to a long mustard-colored banquette sofa. Two curvy bowls and four candlesticks sit haphazardly on the table. At right is a full-wall bookcase with a radiator and window built in. The wooden plank floor is covered with a beige carpet. A single abstract still life hangs on the wall over the banquette. — *Architect and furniture designer Finn Juhl (1912 – 1989) mixed multiple styles, including a long banquette, to create a practical, harmonious*, *informal dining area at his Danish home | John Lord for Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)*

A banquette is a fixed bench with a padded back. It’s usually attached to a wall, like a booth in a restaurant. When used in homes, banquettes are usually built in and placed along a wall on one side of a table. Regular chairs are used around the rest of the table. This set-up is most common in breakfast areas.

Banquettes can be awkward if they’re expected to seat more than two people. This is also true if one end is in a corner. It may not be comfortable for people with movement limitations to scoot far down to the end. It’s also a pain when people have to get up to let others leave the table during the meal. The longer the banquette, the more awkward getting in and out tends to be.

Banquettes have back support attached, which makes sitting in them for longer periods more comfortable. Freestanding benches with upholstered backs are also an option, but are harder to find.

Mixing two coordinating chair styles

A dramatic and light-filled restaurant decorated with curvy pale blue upholstered arm chairs on brass legs, round wood and large rectangular marble tables, wooden angular chairs with beige upholstery on black wire legs, and a terrazzo floor with large grey, brown, and beige pieces of stone set into creamy grout. The high peaked ceiling is full of skylights, most covered in slats of midtoned wood in various diagonal, vertical, and horizontal stripe patterns. The right and left walls are made of giant windows behind tall grids of shelves made of thin black iron rods in a grid, some of which are fitted with wooden drawers and boxes filled with plants. White ball lamps about a foot in diameter hang from the ceiling. The overall effect of so many lines and shapes going in so many directions is busy, energetic and exciting. — *A cafe full of angles and hard surfaces is softened by pale, upholstered, curvy chairs and round wooden tables | Rezha Ramadhan for Unsplash*

Another option is to use one chair style for a table’s sides, and a different style at the ends. These are usually coordinating arm chairs (or “captains’ chairs”). Sometimes side chairs are made of stained wood with upholstered seat cushions and are paired with fully upholstered armchairs at the ends. Often the combined chairs will use the same fabric on all cushions and upholstery. This makes them look more cohesive. They may all be in a neutral color, such as a creamy cotton duck, or heavy unbleached linen.

Using two contrasting styles and combining exposed wood with neutral fabric can be attractive. However, fully upholstering only two chairs at the table may make some diners feel disappointed that they weren’t offered the comfier chairs.

Mixing more than two styles of chairs

Mismatched chairs are a popular theme in traditional farmhouse homes. You can also find them in French country-style kitchens. I’ve seen this style used to good effect in modern farmhouse homes as well. One popular option is to gather four to six chairs of different styles and patterns in the same general wood finish. Place them around a wooden table of a similar hue, or around a slightly distressed or weathered painted table.

Another option is to gather those chairs and paint them all one color, so they all match in at least one way. The most common color for painted chairs is a matte white, though all dark grey, pale blue, dark green, or black are attractive and not uncommon.

Barstools and counter stools

Old-style, rustic barstools or counter stools with wood seats and seat backs are stylish. Sometimes they have dark metal legs or other elements that give them an industrial edge. These are often less expensive than barstools and counter stools with upholstered seats. However, these all-hard-surface chairs are less comfortable to sit in than upholstered seats. Also, the sharper seat edges can be uncomfortable for older or shorter people’s legs.

Upholstered barstools are more likely to get stained. If you use cushions, it makes sense to use darker or darkly patterned, cleanable fabrics. Or choose seats covered in leather or “vegan leather” (i.e., vinyl or similar synthetic materials), which clean up easily. If you use leather seats, wipe them with leather cream occasionally to keep the surface water-repellant and good-looking.

Bar and counter stools on narrow metal legs are chic. However, scooting a tall chair on thin legs can make it more likely to tip. Also, small feet tend to get caught on floor tiles or boards or edges of rugs, and may scrape up floors. Wider wooden legs are more stable. Where possible, place felt, plastic, or rubber feet under chairs to keep your floors from getting damaged. To minimize the noises made by chairs scraping across floors, adhesive felt pads for chair feet can’t be beat. (And the people who live on the floor below you will thank you.)

Seating for Big and Tall People

Note that benches can be good options for big or tall people. If you’re providing seating for people who weigh more than about 250 pounds, consider upholstered benches. These can sometimes be more comfortable because they’re sturdier and not as narrow as fixed-width seats are. If you have only chairs, wide side chairs may be more comfortable than arm chairs, which can squeeze larger people at the sides. Before you purchase chairs, check weight limits. Many are not built to accommodate people who weigh more than 250 pounds. The last thing you want is for someone’s chair to break, causing them embarrassment or harm.

Do you expect to seat tall people? Those with longer legs find chairs or benches with deeper seats more comfortable. Narrower benches can feel like bleachers. They can cut into the thigh if they’re not deep enough, especially if they’re unpadded.

Wheelchair-Accessible Dining Spaces

A woman in a red jacket and khaki pants sits in a hand-powered wheelchair in a cafe. She has rolled the front of her wheelchair under one end of a long rectangular table. She holds a coffee cup and is looking at her open laptop. She sits in front of a bank of windows with bright light streaming in. — This woman can roll up to and under this table because the metal frame below it doesn’t extend all the way to the table’s edge, which would impede her movement. However, she can’t roll straight up to the table because it’s too close to other furniture | Marcus Aurelius for Pexels

People in wheelchairs and walkers need to roll or walk up to a table comfortably. If you expect to use a wheelchair, walker, or other assistive equipment, or plan to host friends or family who do, you’ll want kitchen and dining room furniture that easily accommodates their needs. Making your dining areas accessible means they’ll be easier for everyone else to navigate as well.

If you want wheelchairs to have easy access to your table, consider round or oval tables with pedestals that don’t jut out too far toward the edge. A chair can approach such a table from any angle. Square or rectangular tables with pedestals can work, as can tables with legs, as long as the placement of a leg or pedestal foot doesn’t keep a wheelchair from rolling up close to the table.

Consider table height

Table or counter height is important for accessibility. The ADA requires restaurant tables and counters be between 28 and 34 inches high. This is a good guideline for home use as well.

Rugs can plug up the works

Rugs are a frequent impediment to accessibility. If you have a rug (especially a fabric rug, or one with fringe) that could get caught or tangled in wheels, or be a tripping hazard for a walker, consider moving it out of the way.

Seating options

Some people who use wheelchairs can transfer to an existing chair with an appropriate back, arm rests, or cushioned seating. It’s always helpful to ask people what seating and dining set-up will work best for them—in advance, if possible.

Making access easier

If you expect to use a wheelchair or walker, or to dine with others who do, keep these questions in mind:

Is there a ground-level entrance to the floor where you’ll be dining? If not, can a safe, sturdy, not-too-steep temporary ramp make the entrance accessible?
Can a wheelchair or a person with a walker navigate to and enter the dining area comfortably?
Is there room for that person to turn toward the table, and roll or slide up to it all the way?
Can that person also back away from the table without hitting anything or anyone?

If your answer to any of those questions is no, your dining area isn’t fully accessible. Talk to your guests ahead of time about any adjustments you might make to allow for safer and easier access.

A Sustainable and Affordable Alternative

Minimalist white and wood dining table topped with a bonsai tree next to a with angular molded white chair in a bare room — *Whether your style is modern and minimalist or classic and traditional, you can find exciting pieces (often at great prices) on the secondary market | Davide Cantelli for Unsplash*

Looking to save money and find sustainable dining room furniture? Vintage pieces are often the most affordable and earth-friendly options. Even if you prefer contemporary to vintage styles, you can find remarkable nearly-new furniture bargains. Check out estate sales, furniture consignment stores, thrift shops, Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, and local online auctions.

Older furniture is often better made than contemporary furniture. It more often uses solid wood instead of cheap woods or composites covered by veneers. It may also feature quality wood joinery, instead of glues or screws that fail and make pieces wobble. However, if you prefer newer, more contemporary pieces, you’ll find plenty of nearly new pieces on the secondary market as well.

Specialty shops, such as boutiques that restore and resell midcentury furniture, are likely to be more expensive. However, the sources listed above may offer deals on nearly new furniture that costs as much as 90% off the retail price. If you buy used furniture, you also support sustainable living by reusing existing materials and keeping furniture out of landfills.

It may take some hunting to find just the items you want on the resale market. However, ordering custom dining furniture often requires 10 to 12 weeks of lead time, too. When you’re buying something as large and (we hope) lasting as dining furniture, it makes sense to take your time and choose something that will feel and look good for many years to come.

At top:

A dark and daring dining space can be inviting—just add dramatic lighting, inviting curves and textures, and soft touches for a luxe dining experience | Houzlook.com for Pexels

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